手法紹介 生地<Fabric>

Jamdani

インドベンガル地方に伝わる縫取織の技術、およびその織りを用いた布をジャムダニ(Jamdani)といいます。薄手の素材に繊細で独特な織りが透けてみえるのが特徴です。ジャムダニ織の文様の糸は、竹の針で経糸に挿入され、ぴったりと布にはめ込みます。表も裏もまったく同じに見えるよう織り込まれ、まるで透ける霞の上に花を散らしたように浮き上がって見えます。

Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bengal. This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds the intricate patterns to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a myriad of vibrant patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface.

Khadi

主にインド大陸で生産されている手紡ぎ・手織りの布をカディ(Khadi)といいます。チャルカと言われる糸車を使って紡ぐために、手の動きにあわせてムラがおこり、それが生地に独特の風合い・手触りをもたらします。マハトマ・ガンジーが反英独立運動の際に、自ら手で紡ぎ、織って着用していたことで世界的にも有名で、ガンジーは「Khadi is not just a cloth. It is thought. (カディはただの布ではない。思想である)」ということばを残しています。

Khadi is handspun, hand-woven natural fiber cloth from India, Bangladesh and Pakistan mainly made out of cotton.The cloth is usually woven from cotton which is spun into yarn on a spinning wheel called a charkha and this primitive process can create uneven and unique  hand feel on it’s surface.

  Swadeshi movement of boycotting English products during the first two decades of the twentieth Century was popularised by Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhi started spinning himself and encouraging others to do so. He left behind the word,”Khadi is not just a cloth. It is thought.”


Ikat

イカット(Ikat)は世界各地の〈絣〉を総称する用語です。マレー語の〈縛る〉や〈括(くく)る〉を意味するムンイカットmengikatが語源です。絣はあらかじめ文様にしたがって染め分けた絣糸を用いて織ることが大きな特徴です。その絣糸を作る最も素朴な技法がいわゆる〈括り絣〉,Ikatの技法です。

Ikat is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.

In ikat the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern (ikat means "to bind" in the Indonesian language). The yarns are then dyed. The bindings may then be altered to create a new pattern and the yarns dyed again with another colour. This process may be repeated multiple times to produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When the dyeing is finished all the bindings are removed and the yarns are woven into cloth.